Decorations: Live Plants

Aponogeton, grown from just a bulb

Now, I have to admit: Plants may be one of the most frustrating parts of my aquarium. They're a pain to plant, fish eat them or pull them out, and half the time they're floating on the top, bobbing up and down in the filters stream. But, let's face it. They really make an aquarium look good. I plan on doing a series on my aquarium decorations and aesthetics and today I had done a (20%) water change and some gardening so I figured I would start with plants.

Keeping plants in the gravel is a task unto itself. For weeks I would find plants floating on the surface every morning and every time I replanted them, roots would get damaged. The plants I bought would get nibbled and pulled on until it was only one or two leaves and I almost gave up and went with silk plants. However, I found an easier way to do it.

Available at local home improvement
or gardening stores.

If you're setting up your tank currently, I suggest you use a layer of plant substrate under your layer of gravel. Unfortunately I didn't have plant substrate when I started my aquarium so I had to figure out an alternative method. So I did some looking around and found small plastic dishes (I think for use with tiny potted plants) and bought CaribSea Floramax Premium Aquarium Substrate. Once you find your supplies, the first thing to do is cut holes in the bottom of the dishes (see picture) so that water can move through it. I planted everything outside of the water; planting anything that wants to float away is a nightmare. First, pour a thin layer of substrate to cover the bottom of the dish. Then, hold the plants up in the middle and surround the plants with more substrate. After plants are properly placed and covered, submerge the plants into the water slowly, so nothing moves out of place. Dig a hole in the gravel big enough for your dish to sit in and cover the edges with gravel (to hide the plastic dish). Success. You now have planted some good looking plants that should thrive off of the plant substrate.



Tips and Tricks:

• The Aponogeton in the picture above (first one) actually started as a bulb I bought from PETCO.com. I had to cover it with an upside down plastic dish so my fish wouldn't eat it and pretty soon it was growing a few inches a day.
• Arranging your plant life is pretty difficult when they're in a 4 inch diameter, so try to figure that in when planning your landscaping
• All in all, using substrate and planting plants after setting up a tank is a chore. If at all possible, layer substrate under your gravel and do your planting before filling up your tank (probably easiest in about 4-6 inches of water.

Fresh meat!

I'm happy to introduce all of you to the newest member of the Fishy Files Family

THE MAD SCIENTIST!
Yeah that really is his name.

(Calico Telescope-Eye)

Changing the water

Well, It's water change day here at fishy files so I felt it was a good time to tell everyone what I use to keep my aquarium healthy and running nicely. I recommend about a 15%-20% water change about twice a week, or a 25%-30% water change once a week. This helps keep those nitrates down. Today I did a 20% water change (~6 gallons) using my gravel vacuum and a 4 gallon bucket. I went through all my gravel, and I probably shouldn't show this picture because everyone will think my tank is dirty but here's the water...

Dirty water

which is why it's important to clean your gravel. The culprit of my dirty water situation is the substrate I use for my plants (read further down for tips on how to contain it). Then I refilled the tank 3 gallons at a time (since my bucket only holds 4 and I didn't want to spill) but first, I added a few things. First I added TetraAqua AquaSafe (8.4 fl. oz.), since I was using tap water. Then I used API Aquarium Salt (33 oz.). Yeah, it's good to use aquarium salt in a freshwater fish tank. I was surprised too. The salt works for the fish, kinda like Gatorade works for us. It helps replenish electrolytes and keep the fish happy and healthy. An important thing to remember however, is you cannot just dump the salt in the tank. The fish can choke on it and die, so what you want to do is dissolve it in a separate container first. I use an old sour cream tub (Classy, I know..). Also, you must remember that salt will not evaporate or be filtered out so adding salt is ONLY when removing old water and adding new water.

20% change

Refilled

Tips and Tricks:

• I suggest using a syringe with mL marked on it. It helps when adding water conditioners but not the full dosage (i.e. enough for 3 gallons and not 5).
• Take some time to scope out where your fish like to hang out, often times the gravel will be the dirtiest in that area.
• Keep a towel on the floor, as well as one readily available. You will get wet and unless you like wet floors, a towel will come in handy.
• To contain the dirt and dust from substrate, I use little plastic dishes that are normally used to hold water run-off for potted plants. I cut small holes in the bottom and filled them with substrate and planted my plants within those. Probably would work best when first setting up your tank. I did mine when there was already water in it and it ended up not making much of a difference.

Nitrification Cycle, The In's and Out's

The Science:
It's important to understand the cycle that must take place in your aquarium. This cycle is known as the nitrogen cycle or nitrification cycle. The nitrification cycle is the conversion from ammonia (NH3) to nitrite (NO2-) and from nitrite (NO2-) to nitrate (NO3-). It is important to know that high levels both ammonia and nitrite are toxic to fish. It can stress the fish out and cause any number of diseases. Now to explain the process.

The Cycle:
Once your fish tank is all filled with water and ready to go, the fish are introduced into the aquarium. The fish are then fed (of course) and produce waste. It is this that makes the nitrification cycle so important. Fish waste (as well as any left over food in the tank) produces nitrogen which is broken down into ammonia in your tank. Ammonia levels rise and rise for about 10 days until the proper bacteria colonizes in your gravel, filter, and even on the glass. Once this bacteria colonizes, it converts the ammonia to nitrites. At this point, ammonia will drop substantially and nitrites will climb. This feeds another set of bacteria however, it is impossible for the nitrite-converting bacteria to exist before nitrite is present in the tank therefore this will take about another 10 days. Again, when the bacteria blooms, nitrites will drop and nitrates will then climb. When this takes place, your tank has been successfully cycled. Nitrates are not harmful to fish, so once there is bacteria to convert ammonia to nitrites and nitrites to nitrates, you're good to go. You will want to do a water change after the cycle has completed.

This cycle takes place naturally and may take between 4 and 8 weeks. The cycle will not start until there are fish (or a source of ammonia) in the tank.

Tips and Tricks:

• Do not use ammonia neutralizers. Each bacteria NEEDS the according chemical to survive so using ammonia/nitrite reducers in your tank before it cycles is essentially starving the bacteria you want to grow.
• Do not change your filter! This is where most of the bacteria resides. Changing it will remove the bacteria and ruin your cycle!
• Water changes will also slow the process. Keep them to a minimum and when you do, only change about 10-15%.
• To speed up the cycle, use the filter or gravel of an established tank. This introduces the desired bacteria into your tank much sooner.
• Many people buy barbs or guppies to cycle the tank. They are relatively cheap and the pet store and get the job done.
• As mentioned before, uneaten fish food produces ammonia as well. Although a messy alternative, food can be used as the source of ammonia. (Perhaps put in a stocking to contain it)
• Pure ammonia also works, however it's very hard to find without cleaning additives (surfactants, lemon scent, etc.) check out cyclemytank.com.

Personally, I went with the fishless cycle. I didn't want to purposefully kill a fish, nor did I want to end up with a fish I didn't really want after the cycle was through. I purchased ammonia, an ammonia testing kit and a nitrite testing kit. If you decide to use ammonia, it has to be PURE ammonia. No surfactants, scents or other chemicals. It may take some searching around to find it however cyclemytank.com sells a little kit for fishless cycling. It worked really well and no fish were harmed in the process. The cycle actually only took around 2-3 weeks to fully cycle so I would definitely suggest going that route. 

My Fish Tank Set Up

Hello everyone,

Owning a fish tank is a rewarding hobby. I wanted to share the joys of my fish and perhaps even help those interested in setting up their own tank. But before I start posting my tips and tricks, I'd like to let everyone know my current fish tank set up. I currently have a 29 gallon tank with 4 fancy gold fish who inhabit it. I set up my fish tank a couple months ago and had some troubles getting it to cycle (I will post how I got my tank to cycle later) but I'm glad to report it is running healthily and has not had a problem since. I spent many hours (and gallons of gas) trying to figure out the easiest way to get a good looking tank and in doing so, I have picked up many tips and tricks from various sources (many fish store owners, employees of local pet stores and the internet). In this blog I'm looking forward to sharing my tank with all of you and helping others with this exciting hobby.

Anyways, let me introduce you to the gang.

This is Popeye
(Calico Pearlscale)

Mufasa
(Lionhead)

and O.J.
(Fantail)